Inseam-sewing machine



A. R. MORRILL INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed NOV. 15, 1919 5 Sheets-Sheet l y 23, 1929- A. R. MORRILL INSEAM SEWING MACHINE (5' Sheets-Sheet Filed Nov. 15, 1919 1929- A. R. MORRILL I 1,714,801

' I-NSEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 15, 1919 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented May 28, 1929.

UNITED ST nen ' I F FicjEj;

ALFRED n. MOEEILL, on swAtIPsooTT, TIIASSAOHUSETTS, As'sreNoE" TO UNITED 'sHoE-I MACHINERY CORPORATION, OE PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION E-NEw JERSEY; V

INSEAI VLS EWING MACHINE;

Application fil ed November 15, 1919.; Serial No.-338,1 '8 l'.

The invention relates to inseam sewing machines such as are used to sew the upper to the sole ofa turn shoe, or to sew a welt and upper to the inner sole of a welt shoe.

In welt and turn sewing machines heretofore in commercial use thcneedle path'is at one side of the channel guide about which the, shoe is swung in sewing about the toe and since, in sewing about a pointedtoe, the

channel guide substantially fills the space within the channel for several stitches the weakened point or points.

successive needle holes are likely to intersect at, or near, the channel side ofthe between substance and to so weaken it that the stitches are loose and insecure. This is particularly Objectionable 1n sewing turn shoes SlIlCQ lEhO strain incident to turning the shoecauses the stitches to pull away from the sole at the The present invention remedies in the operation of the prior machines bythe provision of a channel guide, which is'slotted, or divided, to form twowork engaging fingers, which continuously engage the channel and control the position of the, shoe, and

which are arrangedto permitthe, passage of the needle between them during its work piercing'stroke. Although in sewing the toe the guide substantially fills the space within the channel the needle passes throughinstead of to oneside of the guideand as the shoe is turned-about the guide the pathofthe needle during each work piercing stroke may be in a line passing approximately through the center of curvature of the toe so that the successive needle holes. will besubstantially 'radialto the curvature of the between substance and thus distributed in a manner to give maximum strength to the seam. I

The invention may be embodied in machines in which the feed of the shoe is secured'in any desired or well known manner and in case it is embodied in a construction in which the channel guide reciprocates in'the line of feed the guide should be back fed while this d ta durin the sewin a I a h p the channel guide r011 .are-

drawings and thelfollowing detailed description of the mechanism illustrated thereinQ In the drawings Fig. lis a side elevation' a preferred form of channel guide onan en larged scale. Fig.5 is a front elevation of-the mach ne shown in Fig. .1, certain parts be,-

ing removed to better-show the construction behind them[ Figs. 6 to lllare diagrammatic views jillustrating theJmOde of operation in sewing about a pointedtoe,andFi'gs. 12 to are v1ews illustratingthe mode ,of,ope1 at on or the stitch-foriningmechanisin' and particularly of the preferred forn ofqchannel guldeb- I In the drawings the invention is shown embodied in :a welt and turn sewing machine.

similar in general construction andmode of operation to the machinefwhich is' fully shown and describedin applicationNo. 260, }i I 1918,,and in which the 419, filed October 31, work guiding and stitch-forming devices are so mounted and actuated that the feedof the work is continuous during-the sewing. Y I

This machine is provided .with'a curved hook needle 2, a looper4, a thread finger 6,

a backgageB, which, as shown, also acts as a Weltguide, a take up 10, and an auxiliary take-up 12, allot wh chyare similarinconstruct-ion tothe corresponding parts in the machines' of Patents N 0111,07 6,201, October 21, 1913 -ancl;No. 1,108,560-, August. 25, 1914.

The machine is also provided with a channel guide in the form of a smallroll 1 1 and the needle, channel guide, andbackfgageare r all reciprocated'in the lineof feed and are timed toimpart-a continuous.feedto'the work i v The needle and mounted on aslide'16, which is similarin construction to'lthe feed slide offthe 'above patents, and is reciprocated by a oam lever 18 engaging a feed camon the cam shaft. The needle carrylng segment is pivotally mounted ing downwardfromthe slide 16, and is connected to an actuating lever 24 by a link .26.

and guided-in a supporting plate 22', project- The channel-guideroll is carried on thelower end of a shaft-28, whichis mounted in a bearing bracket 30, secure d tothe slide 1.6, and the i upper endof the shaft is connected through gearing 32 with a worm on the cam shaft. The gearing and worm are so proportioned that they will not transmit any rotary motion to the channel'guide roll during its forward travel at a speed tending to impart a forward feed to. the work. p

The swinging arm 36, which carries the back gage, is mounted on a supporting plate 38 secured to a rod 40, which is mounted to slidelengthwise in bearings in the machine frame and also forms the supporting stud on which the slide 16 is mounted. The upper end v move the back gage in the line of feed-by 'a' cam lever '46, the forward end of which pivoted to.-a fixed bracket 48, and the rear end of which'carries aroll engaging the feed cam.

'Thelever is connected to'the rod 40 by a pivot stud '50 engaging a pivot block which fits within a'slot in the enlarged nd 52 of the rod. The'parts are so timed that the back gage is back-fed, while the work is being advanced in the line of feed'by the needle and channel guide, and the needle and channel guide are back fed while the needle is out of the work and the back gage is advancing in the lineo'f feed, the channel guide rotating during its back feed to assist the back gage in advancing the work. V

In embodying the invention 1 in this ma.- chine the channel guide roll is slotted or divided, at its lower end, to provide two rigidly connected fingers 54', which are continuously in engagement with the channel' and are so arranged that-they will beat substantially equal distances from and close to the opposite sidesof the needle path when the needle advances through the between substance.

Since the roll rotates during its back feed each: work-engaging finger is preferably rounded Olf, 2lS indicated at 56, on the side which 'faces away from the channel when the finger ison the seam side of the needle path. This permits the thread from thencedle to the preceding stitch co-readily draw under'the finger and tightlyagainst the bottom-of the channel as the needle draws its loop outward through the work from the posi-' tion'indicated, in Fig. 12 to its full retracted position indicated in Fig. 13. It also permits the finger to readily ride over the thread leading from the last needle hole to the'looper as the channel guide rotates during its back feed, as indicated in Fig. 14. During its back feed the roll makes a half revolution so that thespace between the work-engaging fingers again faces the channel at the completion of travel, but will rotate it during itsbackward the back feed and thereafter the roll remains in this position during its forward feed and until the needle has again advanced between the fingers and has retracted to'draW-a new loop through the work.

Tlheadvantages of the above construction in sewing about a pointed. toe will be ap parent upon a comparison of the mode of operation indicated 111- Figs. 6 to 8 with the mode of operation indicated in Figs. 9 to 11.

Figs. 6 to 8 indicate the arrangement of the needle holes and stitches incident to swinging ashoeabouta channel guide, which is at one side of the needle path,- while Figs. 9 to 11 are similar views indicating the ar rangement of needle holes and stitches which may be secured by swinging the shoe-about aClIVIClGCl, or slotted, channel guide, which continuously engages and positions the channel while sewing about the toe. For the purposes of comparison a channelguide roll is shown in Figs. 6 to 8 and it is assumed that the the roll "reciprocates in-the line of feed- 3 and back feeds while the needle is out of the work. It will be noted that in Figs.-6, 7' and 8 the channel guide practically fillsthe space within the channel and that since the needle must pass to'one side of the channel guide the first and second needle holes formed'in swinging about the toe pass through the between substance at an undesirable angle and intersect so that comparatively little between substance will be embraced within the thread of the stitch joining the holes. It is also evident, from an inspection of these views, that the arrangement and distribution of the stitches about the toe is not desirable or tended to secure a satisfactory'seam. With the construction and mode of operation indicated in Figs. 9 to 11 the channel guide again fills the space within the channel but, in this 7 case, theneedle passes through, instead of to one side of, the guide so that the needle holes may be substantially radial to the curvature of the between substance and maybe so distributed that the thread of each stitch willeinbrace sufficient between substance to securely hold the parts together when the seamis subjected to the strains incident to V subsequent operations on the shoe,

While it is preferred to employ the spe- 'cific construction and arrangement of parts shown and described in embodying the invention in the machine of'the application above referred to it will be understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential to the broader features of the invention and may be varied, or modified, as found desirable or best suited to the specific construction and mode of operation of the stitchforming and work-feeding devices of themachine in which it is to be embodied.

What is claimed is:

1. An inseam sewingmachine having, in i combinatiom'ahook needle,'axlooper, and a thereto while it is between them.

work-engaging fingers spaced vfor the passage of the needle and maintained infixed relation thereto while it is between them.

2. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle mounted to enter the work from the outside, a looper, and a channel guide having two rigidly connected work-engaging fingers spaced for the passage of the needle and maintained in fixcdrelatio 3. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a looper, a channel guide having two work-engaging fingers spaced for the passage of the needle between them, and mechanism for reciprocating the channel uide in the line of feed timed to back feed it while theneedle is out of the work.

4. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle mounted to enter the work from the outside, a looper, and a channel guide having two work-engaging fingers spaced to permit the passage of the needle and mounted to remain permanently within the channel during the sewing and in fixed relation to the needle while-it is between them. i

5. An inseam "sewing machinehaving, in

combination, a hook needle, a looper, a channel guld'e roll slotted for the passage of the needle therethrough, and means for rotatlng the roll between successive needle thrusts and stopping it with the slot facing the channel.

6. An inseam sewing 'machine having, 1n

combination, ahook needle, a looper, a channel guide roll slotted for the passage of the needle therethrough and means for recipro eating the roll in the line of feed and for r0- tating it during its back feed'to re-position the slot for the'succeeding stroke of the needle.

7. An inseam sewing machine having, in

combination, a hook needle,-a looper, and a channel guide roll comprising work-engaging l fingers spaced for the passage of the needle etween them and eachlrounded on one side todirect the thread under the finger.

I ALFRED R. MORRIQLL, 

